From the days of Tom Ford’s power femmes to Alessandro Michele’s eclectic waifs, Gucci’s lineup of models has always reflected the sensibilities of the brand as a whole. Thank casting directors Barbara Nicoli and Leila Ananna—who’ve worked with Frida Giannini, and now Michele—for that. As fashion industry veterans, Nicoli and Ananna select the faces that grace Gucci’s runway, in addition to casting some of fashion’s biggest shows—Burberry, Jil Sander, Tod’s, and Armani Privé, among them. Always searching for that next great face, the duo opens up on working with Alessandro Michele and how the business has changed in the past two decades.
What is it like working with Alessandro on these latest Gucci collections?
BARBARA NICOLI: [During Resort] we worked with Alessandro Michele up until the very last minute before the show started. When we worked for him for the first time [Fall 2015], he explained to us exactly what his collection was all about and what he had in mind. Alessandro never mentioned to us a specific body type or famous model he wanted in his show. Instead, he explained the inspiration for the collection and his world. He got us both to understand his vision immediately. During casting, Alessandro knows exactly how to make the model into a true character, to mesh with the collection.
How have Gucci’s casts evolved over time?
LEILA ANANNA: There is no before or after. Alessandro Michele is different from Frida Giannini, who was different from Tom Ford. It doesn’t make sense to compare three human beings with such different, strong personalities.
What was it like doing Gucci in New York this time around as opposed to Milan?
BN: The show was very intense. We had much less time than usual, so we worked around the clock.
Is there any difference in the selection process you undertake when working for print editorial as opposed to a runway show?
LA: We cannot say we prefer one or the other; it’s just a different way of working. You could say we like working more when there is not a computer or e-mails in between—to not have that barrier is refreshing. We are the casting directors ofFlair magazine, and sometimes the teams are really large. We try our best to establish a relationship with everyone, but it can be logistically difficult at times.
Backstage at Gucci F/W15
Photo: Instagram
What has been the most striking change you’ve noticed in the modeling industry?
LA: Society and cultures have impacts on the fashion and modeling industries. There have been changes in modeling trends over the years, of course. In the early ’90s, it was the age of the superwoman. Then we went through extremely young and androgynous models in the mid- to late ’90s. The new century brought a feel for healthy and extremely beautiful women. Currently, we are back in an age of young, fresh girls and boys. Our personal opinion is that people, in and outside of the fashion industry, are searching again for something pure and simple.
BN: I have to say years ago it was very different. There weren’t as many models as there are now. The same model could be in the shows one after the other because the calendar was not so tight. Also, there weren’t as many conflicts between the brands to get the best girls the exclusive. There have been few [changes] over the 22 years we have been in the industry. Changes always tend to follow economic trends. Fashion reflects what’s going on in the world, politically, economically, just like art. Fashion is pretty amazing in this sense. Unfortunately, we are passing through a huge economic crisis here in Europe, which isn’t over yet.
With so many shows and clients, how do you keep things fresh each season?
BN: We never stop researching new faces or asking modeling agencies to send us more pictures and videos of new talent. We like the idea of discovering a new face, a new personality, or a new character to then go back to our clients and ask for their thoughts. It’s one of the most exciting parts of this job. Once you have helped start a model’s career and the other people start to notice him or her, it makes us feel proud of the work we are doing. For us, this means that you truly understand what people in the fashion industry are looking for.
Source: Style
Author: Janelle Okwodu
Reference Link: http://www.style.com/trends/industry/2015/gucci-casting-directors-barbara-leila