LONDON Collections: Menhas cemented London on the fashion map, once again affirming it as the home of modern menswear. It comes as no surprise then, that since LC:M's inception in 2012, London's menswear retail scene has also boomed and is set to continue to do so, with research firm Mintel predicting a 27 per cent rise in UK men's fashion sales between 2013 and 2018. No longer just about Savile Row, the influence of the creativity and variety in the bi-annual LC:M shows has seen a shift in the way that men want to dress, how they spend their money, and where they want to shop. With that, smaller hubs have been springing up from East to West to cater to the capital's male customers.
Every guide book will direct you to the main shopping thoroughfares of Oxford Street and Regent Street, where most of the high street giants have a flagship and Britain's department stores clamber for attention - including Selfridges, the second largest store in the UK after Harrods in Knightsbridge. Also detailed in every Lonely Planet edition will be the more exclusive destinations, Bond Street and Sloane Street, which pull in the wealthiest shoppers from around the globe and for most are a chance to window shop, taking in the temptation that Saint Laurent, Dolce & Gabbana, Prada and Burberry have to offer.
At the east end of Soho, just before you hit Regent Street, Carnaby Street has moved on from the Swinging Sixties when it made its name sustaining the styles of the hippies and Mods that were created there.
Not wanting to step on the toes of the guide books - and trust us, your toes may be stepped on if you follow their advice - we have taken our time to gather a list of the capital's best areas for men to get their sartorial fix, in a much less frenetic environment. Whether that's the bespoke on Savile Row or the beatnik history of Soho, London has you covered.
SOHO
Soho and menswear go hand-in-hand. Stretching from Regent Street to Leicester Square, the area is filled with the best that London has to offer. From vintage finds and bespoke tailors, to Nudie's denim repair shop and weekly queues for Footpatrol's latest drop of Nike Huaraches, Ted's Grooming Room - the traditional Turkish barbershop by Ted Baker - and independent contemporary brands, Berwick Street provides a menswear oasis just a step from Oxford Street's bustle.
Beak, Lexington, Brewer and Poland Streets all offer a selection of menswear boutiques, their size not diminishing their attempts at draining your bank account. Y.M.C., Gant Rugger, Paul Smith, Albam Clothing and Maharishi are just some of the names to be found on a wander around Soho's narrow ways, the gentrification of these areas - most recently Old Compton, Berwick, Rupert and Great Windmill Streets - providing more and more attraction for our favourite brands to add to the region's portfolio.
At the east end of Soho, just before you hit Regent Street, Carnaby Street has moved on from the Swinging Sixties when it made its name sustaining the styles of the hippies and Mods that were created there. Elements of that era still remain, with labels influenced by its styles and music - Liam Gallagher's Pretty Green, Fred Perry's pop-up dedicated to the floral wreath logo and Ben Sherman - all open on Carnaby Street and the adjacent stretches, Kingly and Newburgh Streets. Footwear from Dr Marten, Nike, Converse and Puma; denim giants Levi's, Replay and Diesel; and contemporary labels such as ElevenParis and The Kooples all deal an eclectic mix to suit every man. Liberty, the iconic department store at the northern end of Carnaby Street, houses the latest collections from premium brands such as Alexander McQueen, Acne, Kenzo and Valentino in its basement.
SAVILE ROW
No other street in the world is as famous for menswear as Savile Row. Such is this fame, that the Japanese word for the man's suit is 'sabiro'. When said out loud, it's not hard to land on a possible origin.
Since the late 18th Century, British tailoring's home has been on the Row and has dressed kings, princes, prime ministers, movie stars and rock stars from here and around the world. Today, relative newcomers such as Alexander McQueen and Ozwald Boateng sit together with iconic names from centuries past - Gieves & Hawkes, Henry Poole & Co, and Kilgour - to make a rich mix of heritage and modernity. Some of the oldest occupiers, such as Norton & Sons, helmed by this year's BFC/GQ Designer Menswear Fund winner Patrick Grant, are also being brought bang up-to-date, rejuvenated by friendly competition and youthful directors.
Why is it still so popular? Why is it still relevant? Who still buys bespoke? The argument will always be there, but as long as there are offices, weddings, and men wanting the best tailoring that money can buy, there will be always be Savile Row.
MAYFAIR
Mayfair has burst, through necessity more than anything, from its Bond Street confines - Europe's most expensive retail location - and whole new areas to rival it have sprung up. Dover Street - home to Christian Louboutin, Dover Street Market and Acne Studios - has established itself as a new fashion go-to, also attracting womenswear icons like Victoria Beckham.
A stone's throw away is Mount Street, the picturesque retail gauntlet where Marc Jacobs, Loewe, Balenciaga, Pringle and Christopher Kane - the Scottish wunderkind's only store - all vie for attention. Predominantly womenswear offerings, the stores on this street don't make their menswear too visible, which makes it seem more fun, like a secret you have uncovered in Loewe's basement that's yours for the taking (Amex permitting). Dissecting Mount Street towards its west end, South Audley Street is home to Marc by Marc Jacobs, Rick Owens and, the most high profile London store opening of this year, Balmain.
The Chiltern Firehouse has made the area not only a high-profile destination for Londoners, but one known by international visitors
MARYLEBONE
Since the opening of hotelier André Balazs's first UK outpost, Chiltern Firehouse, in 2013, there has been a buzz about Chiltern Street in the "village" of Marylebone. But long before the stars descended, the street, and its neighbouring Marylebone High Street, had already started to bring in a more discreet clientele.
Trunk Clothiers curates menswear from Japan, Europe, America and the UK - from Mackintosh to Comme des Garçons - while their eclectic accessories and lifestyle shop further along the street, Trunk LABS, caters to those finishing touches. One of only two Club Monaco menswear-specific stores is here, sitting alongside Chiltern Street native Grey Flannel which offers a selection of brands including Giorgio Armani and a made-to-measure service.
"The Chiltern Firehouse has made the area not only a high-profile destination for Londoners, but one known by international visitors," says Sunspel's owner Nicholas Brooke, whose store is at number 13. "From this, The Monocle Cafe and others have also set up, and have made the street truly vibrant and special."
COVENT GARDEN
Perhaps the place a London guide book is most likely to tell you to visit - and admittedly this is the reason that most Londoners avoid it - is Covent Garden. The Punch & Judy shows and other forms of street performance torture however are more widely advertised than the fashion hotspot that has found its home in the tourist haven.
Long Acre, Covent Garden's high street, has a buzzing and charming atmosphere, carrying British staples like Reiss, Ben Sherman, Barbour and Original Penguin. One street down, an inconspicuous lane, Floral Street, provides British menswear classics Paul Smith and Ted Baker, as well as Orlebar Brown, where you will realise that you have have been wearing the wrong swim shorts your whole life.
Nestled in the streets surrounding the main Piazza, and just the next ones down from Floral Street, are some of London menswear's most desirable retail outlets. On King Street, a standalone Brit store, Burberry's more casual and affordable line; the UK's only outpost of multifaceted designer mecca Opening Ceremony; Sandro, owned by French giant LVMH which also owns Louis Vuitton and Dior, has its flagship store here; and heritage brand Hackett.
Running out of space on these streets, labels are moving on to the next one, Henrietta Street. The last year has seen Fred Perry and Nigel Cabourn move in, and the opening of luxury footwear and clothing brand Oliver Sweeney's new flagship when it relocated from King Street to larger premises. "We've had a store in Covent Garden for many years and we love the diversity of the area," Tim Cooper, Oliver Sweeney's cobbler-in-chief told us. "As well as the many tourists, there's a fascinating mix of businesses - everything from long-established investment companies to start-up creative agencies - that makes it such a vibrant place to have a store."
It seems that the next in succession - bearing in mind the one-after-the-other expansion of shops on Covent Garden's streets - will be to sit alongside Ruffians Barbers, which sits behind Henrietta Street on Maiden Lane. The multi-award-winning barber shop and store - a favourite among the male fashion pack - provides exceptionally trained staff and full-service experience in classically stylish surroundings, including a whisky and coffee bar, to unwind and complete your look once the shopping is done.
BLOOMSBURY
Set back from the main road through Holborn, Lambs Conduit Street is turning a usually bookish Bloomsbury into a sanctuary for a relaxed and considered shopping experience. Oliver Spencer, Folk, Grenson, Private White V.C., a men's only J Crew, Universal Works and multibrand Content - stocking the likes of Nike, Barbour and Y.M.C. - are condensed into a small but perfectly formed menswear assembly.
"Lambs Conduit Street is a real hub of home-grown menswear designers," a spokesperson for Oliver Spencer told us. "The close-knit Bloomsbury community spirit is definitely something that attracted us to the area when we first moved here, and something that we still thrive on today. There's no other street in London quite like it."
"Deciding on store locations at Aesop is always about balancing the energy of the location, its community and the commercial potential." Daniel Bense, Aesop's UK manager added. "With Lambs Conduit Street, we were attracted by the strong menswear offer but it was more the like-minded approach of retailers like Oliver Spencer, Folk Clothing and Universal Works that really cemented this for us. Add to this a good wine merchant, café, traditional pubs, a flower shop and publishing house and there isn't much more you need. Fashion conscious men are generally well groomed men and these are undoubtedly our customers."
EAST LONDON
Like most things in London, if you want to find the newest and coolest, you have to go east. Menswear stores now line Spitalfields market on Commercial Street, such as Topman's General Store - housing the brand's more premium lines and specially selected brands - Hackett, Albam and Fred Perry. A short walk away, behind Shoreditch High Street and the pool-topped Shoreditch House, lies Redchurch Street. Menswear favourites A.P.C., Nudie Jeans, Sunspel and even a men's-only outpost of American retailer Club Monaco have set up shop here. In addition, barbershop Murdock sits alongside Aesop, an Australian skincare brand that has gained a cult following amongst well-heeled (and groomed) gentlemen, unifying the masculine destination.
"Redchurch Street and the Shoreditch area reflect the range of our customer uniquely," explained Nicholas Brooke, owner and CEO of Sunspel. "There's a strong community, with Shoreditch House and Mother across the way and so many designers and artists based in the East End, but then the City is also within walking distance. We've recently refreshed and expanded our Redchurch Store, which is a testament to the success we've had there and the fact the area is becoming such a destination."
East London's anything goes attitude has resulted in some of the most daring attempts at retail, including Box Park on Shoreditch High Street, the pop-up mall housed in shipping containers that proves bigger isn't always better. Further afield, LN-CC (Late Night Chameleon Cafe), the appointment-only concept store set under an unassuming office block in Dalston stocks brands such as Rick Owens and JW Anderson in arguably London's most impressive retail space designed by Gary Card. LN-CC's founder John Skelton is "giving customers an insight into the world of LN-CC which is more than just a store that sells clothing, it's a unique and individual expression of the brand".
Source: Vogue
Author: Mikael Jack
Reference Link: http://www.vogue.co.uk/arts-and-lifestyle/2015/06/menswear-shopping-london---where-to-shop-for-menswear